Pros and Cons of Modernization

I read an article on Qatar this morning about its rapid modernization. Its a very good read because it talks about how Qatar is able to make a name for itself in the world but at the same time it has also lost a lot of flavor in the older parts of the capital.


http://www.mideasti.org/encounter/modernization-daily-life-qatar

YEMEN!!!!

Jessica and I had a 4day weekend because of Mother's Day and to celebrate the birth of the Prophet Mohamed (). In Egypt, not everyone celebrates his birthday. When they do, they buy lots of candy and sugar dolls. It is also another reason for families to gather together. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mawlid)
To celebrate the break from school, Jessica and I traveled to Yemen to visit one of my friends from UW. When we first made plans to travel, many of my friends were surprised and tried to persuade me not to go saying that there was nothing to do in Yemen (Heaven forbid we travel to a country with no shopping malls:)) and that the country is uncivilized. Going to Yemen was definitely a culture shock!!! I know I would never be able to live there but I'm really glad I visited it. I like to think of Yemen as a country full of wrinkly old men, breathtaking geography, Qat chewers, and millions and millions of little children who wanted their pictures taken. (you will understand once you see my pictures:)) Even the old men wanted pictures!! The people were really nice, always shouting "hello" and "Welcome to Yemen." The thing that disgusted me the most were the men when they were chewing qat (which was all the time!!) ( ) ( http://www.american.edu/ted/qat.htm ) There isn't a whole lot to do in Yemen and the majority of the people are unemployed, so the men chew qat in the afternoon. I don't really understand it, but from what I witnessed is that the men stuff huge wads of qat leaves in their mouths creating a large bump and then they chew on the leaves for the rest of the day. The men look really weird and it is so difficult to understand them! But I hear that the leaves help reduce hunger...which is why everyone there was deathly skinny!! Qat chewing is a bad habit because not eating is very unhealthy, but at the same time approximately 75% of the population is malnourished and living below the poverty line. So maybe its helpful psychologically. However a friend pointed out that the men spend 60% of the income on qat. hmmm. Where does that leave their children who should grow up with proper healthcare and education? And the women? They are also extremely skinny. But even with this problem, I wouldn't consider Yemen to be uncivilized. It is true that the only regular toilet I found was in my friend's apartment, and most of the buildings we stayed in (in the old city at least) were built shortly before the 12th century!! Also, everyone wears the traditional clothing (the men wear thobes (the white man dress) with a decorative dagger on their belts and the women are covered from head to toe in black). But there was running water, electricity, cars in the streets (I only saw donkeys on farms) and transportation systems. The transportation was my favorite. You could get on random buses that would drive you around town...hahah we even got into and accident!! I feel so stupid because I watched the car hit the bus under my window, and I could have been hurt. oops! oh well!! It wasn't a bad accident and both the bus and car were previously banged up, making it hard to notice the impact of the crash:) We also rode random trucks up the mountain to visit an old Imam's palace (dated around the 1950's, so fairly modern:)). But I don't think the lack of modern dress wear and transportation laws/systems is a reason for Yemen to be uncivilized. They are just living very differently:) I'm just amazed that tradition is still a main value of life, and that the ancient infrastructures are still beautifully decorated, not to mention standing! The government is also working a little harder. It recently created a firearm ban for non-military and non-governmental people in hopes to make the country safer (although I never felt in danger) and to encourage tourism....which would in turn improve the economy in hopes to reduce the percentage of malnourished people. Yemen would never be as strong in tourism as Egypt because it doesn't have as a remarkable history, but its never ending mountains and breathtaking views have a potential for catching a lot of attention.
While I was in Yemen I also visited the Shahara mountains. There is an ancient bridge built about a large ravine that connects two villages. Lets just say getting to that bridge was an adventure!! My friends and I shared a Land Rover and a driver to take us to the mountains. There were several military checkpoints along the way, where we were required to give them copies of our travel permits. But our driver didn't make enough copies. So once we ran out...the driver started telling the guards that we were Syrian, which was definitely convincing with Jessica's red hair. haha oh well, it worked! We also stopped at a village called Amran. The people there were really kind and I've never seen so many children in my life!! And they all wanted their pictures taken!! haha this was the vacation I really wanted...to witness people living totally different than me, and to have kids be really excited to see us and follow us everywhere we went. I just wish I had school supplies to give them:( Anyways, back to the mountains. We drover for what seemed several hours and then reached the base of the mountains. The Land Rovers couldn't drive anymore so we transferred to 4x4's and stood in the bed of the pick ups for 2 hours!! What an experience!! haha there were a few times we swore that our truck wouldn't make it up the mountain because the roads were so steep and weren't always in the best condition. But we made it, and the view was even more breathtaking than the bridge! I was in awe:) Then a bunch of kids showed us around their village ( ) (Out of this rises the Shahara, a huge mountain massif, the highest point being nearly 3,000m (9,840ft) above sea level. This can be climbed by foot or by 4-wheel drive car. Shahara Bridge, built in the 17th century, connects two mountains and can still be crossed by foot.)
( http://www.viewzone.com/y-page31.html )

The village even had schools, a prison, and a court system. I was quite impressed:) The next day we walked down the mountains. I have so much respect for the villagers because walking down the mountain was sooo difficult!! It was really steep and there wasn't always a real path. And of course I had to show off my graceful side by falling and twisting my ankle! Oh well, I made it the rest of the way and the guys who traveled with us helped me walk slowly:) Then after another long car ride, we returned to Sana'a and passed out in my friend's apartment. The next day we explored the city, visited the Imam's palace (which was located on top of a rock, built a little over 50 years ago) and of course we bought souvenirs at the ancient souq (market):)

Yemen was definitely worth visiting and I recommend it to everyone...unless you only travel to go shopping and be pampered in spas...

Here are some random facts about Yemen:
oh I forgot to mention....the traditional food (salta) was really good. It was this spicy, bubbly goo with meat and you dip bread into it. Looks weird, but I would eat it again:)




http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yemen



Next trip...Spring Break!!

I'm going to Syria, Jordan, and Palestine-Israel

Yemen

What do I think of Egypt so far??

I absolutely love Egypt!! The people are young at heart, friendly, and always willing to help. People consider Egypt to be Al-om al-dunia (mother of the world)...and it really is!! Egypt is never boring because there is always something different to do and the people never sleep. Unfortunately there are so many poor people in Egypt...and the only way to fully enjoy her beauty is to have money. People do enjoy themselves with cheap activities...such as hanging out by the Nile river or drinking tea (if you don't drink tea in Egypt....there is something seriously wrong with you:))...but as a foreigner I feel like I enjoy Egypt a lot more. Egyptians are thrilled when they learn that I love Egypt...but they can never understand why. But I'm naive to the problems of Egypt. I can afford a maid to clean my apartment, I have someone clean my clothes, I can take any form of transportation I want and I have friends who are members of country clubs. So I can relax somewhere clean and fun. I can afford to eat and most importantly I can leave whenever I want. It's really sad to know that most of my Egyptian friends that I've made here won't be able to visit me....because it is very difficult/almost impossible to obtain a visa. And they are the best group of friends I have ever had. The government has a lot of money because Egypt is actually a rich country with its ancient history, tourism, and agriculture. But Egypt is a desert so people are confined to living close to the Nile river...and the population is increasing....making free space literally unavailable. And the government either keeps all the money or uses it to improve tourists sites. They don't care that police officers in the street only make 70 pounds a month (about $12). How are they supposed to eat and support their families and live in a house? There are so many people without adequate shelter and many people who aren't able to eat everyday. The world always criticizes Egypt for animal abuse....it is sad to see donkeys worked really hard, horses with bony ribs and hips, and I've heard rumors that the zoo is sometimes depressing....but what about the people? What about the children who have no childhood because they must work in hazardous conditions to support their family? How are people supposed to take care of animals and recycle and conserve wild habitats if they can't even afford to take care of themselves? It is true that the first Lady of Egypt does spend a lot of money on education...which is very important...but how are the children supposed to learn? They can't concentrate with empty stomachs and most of them can't afford to stop working in order to go to school. Also, the first Lady should know that it is acceptable to wear an outfit more than once. That is a huge waste of money!!!!!!!!! I even found an article from New York Times stating that most Egyptians can't afford to have their own weddings. It is very difficult to find a job, and once one is found... the salary is really low.

Anyway, I love Egypt. I love all the adventures of soccer games, horseback riding, history learning, tea-drinking and shisha smoking adventures I have had....but its heartbreaking to know that many Egyptians won't ever have as much fun as me...in their own country!!!

Africa Park

On Friday February 29th, Ahmed, Jessica, and I went to Africa Park. It is near Alexandria and it is a place where you can experience a safari from you car. It was sooo much fun! The animals were in good condition...and we were allowed to feed most of them. I was even able to play soccer:)....lol with 8 year olds but it was still fun. Jessica was lucky to have a little girl stalk her everywhere....and Jessica and I made friends with Egyptian girls!!!!! too bad they live so far away:( But they were really nice...and offered us chips and wanted to be in a picture with me:) Africa park was one of the coolest animal experiences I have ever had....and I took so many pictures! lol I think there were 197. I found an article on the park from an American newspaper and thought it was interesting. And of course I have pictures:)


By TANALEE SMITH
The Associated Press
Sep 30, 2004



ON THE CAIRO-ALEXANDRIA HIGHWAY, Egypt - As the sun set over the Zambezi, a lone zebra ventured to the water's edge for a cooling drink after the hot day, apparently unconcerned about predators or other danger.

After all, why worry? This was not an untamed river in sub-Saharan Africa, but the Zambezi Rest Stop, just off a busy highway linking Cairo and Alexandria, and the only predators in the vicinity were two lions lazing behind the secure fence of a large enclosure. The free-roaming zebras, gazelles, springbok and other wild animals have no fears at the Africa Safari Park, where guests watch them from their cars or from the terrace of the Zambezi, a restaurant overlooking a manmade lake.

The 160-feddan park, landscaped to mimic the African veldt, for now aims to lure curious commuters who have an hour or two to spare on their journey between Egypt's two major cities. By next summer, though, owner Tarek A. Makarem envisages the park as a longer rest stop - he is building luxury guesthouses that will let visitors live a longer safari experience.

"When I finish, this park will be the fourth pyramid in Egypt," Makarem said, clearly proud of his achievement in turning the flat desert expanse into an African-style grassland, with hills, rocky outcroppings, a small scenic lake and waterfalls.

Makarem, who decided to build the park after taking a safari in South Africa, is following an eccentric wildlife trend along the Cairo-Alexandria desert road. At least three of the main rest stops that break up the
135-mile journey host small zoos housing lions, tigers, a variety of antelope, apes and bird species.

Egyptians are cautious about animals; pets are an almost alien concept and the Cairo Zoo - which regularly hears criticism over the poor conditions and unhealthy animals - is more of a public park to stroll through on holidays than an animal attraction.

The visitors to the small zoos along the Cairo-Alex highway one hot summer day seemed mostly curious about the caged animals, not knowing whether to approach them, feed them or heckle them.

Master's Zoo, at the busy Master's rest stop almost halfway between Egypt's two largest cities, is still stocking its large garden with animals - for now, interested visitors stretching their legs from the drive can see caged peacocks and Chinese geese, white mountain goats and a few gazelles in a sunken circular pen with a cave providing shade, a couple of isolated monkeys, and, strangely, three German shepherds and a Rottweiler in a kennel at the far end of the well-kept park.

A bit further down the road to Alexandria, speeding vehicles rush by a pen of ostriches just off the highway at the Omar Oasis restaurant. Few guests stopping for a meal here venture out to the few cages of animals. The largest pen, a 35-foot-long narrow enclosure, holds about 25 spotted deer, crowding into the shade around a stone water trough. When a playful 8-year-old named Ahmed - who said he asks his parents to stop at the tiny zoo on every trip to Alexandria - brought bread from the restaurant, the deer scrambled to their feet, flocking to the fence and almost desperately nosing each other in competition for a scrap of food.

The third animal pit stop - Assad, or lion in Arabic - is a more like a jungle-themed restaurant. The entrance is the mouth of a tiger; three sleepy lions rest on a molded rock outcropping just inside the gate; and cages containing ostriches or monkeys are just feet away from the dining tables, which sit under stuffed wild animals in aggressive poses hanging from the rafters. Deeper in the mini-park is a circus cage for the once-a-week lion and tiger shows; Assad is home to six lions and about 12 tigers.

Sensitive to questions about the care of the animals, workers at each of the small zoos insisted that the animals had regular checkups from veterinarians and were cared for by trained employees. Their statements could not be confirmed, as the owners of each zoo could not be reached.

The animals in the private zoos did seem to have better health, and for the most part, better living conditions, than those at the Cairo Zoo, which has for years been called to account by animal rights activists and concerned visitors who see the animals suffering from neglect, cramped living spaces and poor veterinary care.

Makarem, owner of the Africa Safari Park, said he has employed a veterinarian from the Cairo Zoo to come once a month to check his animals, which he imported from across Africa, and all of the employees were trained by experienced animal trainer.

Even before its official opening, though, one unique element of the safari park raised the eyebrows of some. Each Friday, guests can gather at the fenced lion enclosure and watch the female "hunt" a live pig placed at the far end.

Makarem refused to answer questions about the so-called lion hunt, saying it was a minor part of what the park offered to Egyptians - a chance to see wild animals in an almost-natural environment, a safari without the expense of travel to southern Africa.

"I feel the animals are in their natural place," Makarem said. "They have water, hills, grasses. It's freedom for them."

The park is a driving safari - an entrance fee of about $8 lets vehicles follow the trail through rolling grassland where one can spot grazing springbok and zebras. Around one corner, two chimpanzees screech for attention - and food - from a tall rocklike formation in the middle of a small lake. At one enclosure, an employee places apple bits all over the vehicle and guides it through a gate: suddenly at least half a dozen baboons swarm the car, climbing on the hood and roof to snatch the food, sitting on the car while they munch their snacks and the visitors watch through the windows, having been warned not to open them to the animals. A roofed enclosure features birds of all sizes and colors flitting to and fro above the vehicles, chirping incessantly.

Animal trainers wander by foot or bicycle through the park, making sure the visitors maintain their distance from the animals, or pointing a lost car back to the trail.

The safari ends at the Zambezi Rest Stop, a restaurant overlooking the lake.

Makarem plans to bring in rhinos, giraffes and elephants before opening the park as a hotel resort next year. He will also incorporate a shopping mall and a park for children.

"I'm convinced that this will be a place for Egyptians to be proud of," Makarem said, gazing out over the lake he created in the desert.

Africa Park

b

Egypt wins the African Cup!!

This year's African Cup (for soccer) took place in Ghana...and Egypt won!! Jessica and I were always going to cafes to watch the games.

Here is a clip of the best goals during the tournament:




We even bought Egyptian flags...and one is hanging up in our apartment (yes with a lovely duct tape frame:))Anyways, Jessica and I watched the final match between Egypt an Cameroon in a cafe in Mohandiseen. lol we were a little jealous that we weren't the only foreigners...but the two other guys were cool. It was so much fun watching the game and it was a really good game too!! You can watch some highlights on this link:


http://uk.eurosport.yahoo.com/11022008/58/african-cup-nations-cairo-celebrates-historic-triumph.html


And the best part of it all....Egypt won!!!!!!!!!
"Egypt won the Africa Cup of Nations for the sixth time in the tournament's history, this afternoon in Accra, Ghana. The Pharaohs (Egypt) defeated the Indomitable Lions (Cameroon) 1 - 0 to win the Cup with a goal by Mohamed Aboutrika in the 77th minute of the game. Egypt was the Cup winner last time (2006), when the finals were played in Cairo. While the Pharaohs were not favored to win, they were always strong contenders. "


http://uk.eurosport.yahoo.com/11022008/58/african-cup-nations-cairo-celebrates-historic-triumph.html


After the game, we cheered Egypt some more at the cafe and waited for Ahmed to pick us up....because as foreigners and girls it was too dangerous for us to walk to ride a taxi home alone. Plus he wanted to celebrate the victory with us:) In between the cafe an our apartment is a street called Gamia al-dowall. It is a huge street, and the majority of Egypt was there celebrating the match. Of course Jessica and I wanted to go there. We lived in Egypt, cheered for Egypt, and wanted to celebrate with Egypt. But Ahmed wouldn't let us...it was too dangerous...because they might make us dance? hmm Jessica and I couldn't understand the dangers so we gave him an ultimatum. Either he comes with us or we go alone. Haha, he went with us. But we were only on the street for 1 minute...because it really was dangerous!!! With my height and Jessica's red hair, it is hard for us to go unnoticed. All of a sudden the celebrating crowds turned around an started coming towards us!!! We were pushed up against the shop windows and Ahmed was trying to protect us. Then the police came and starting beating people with wooden sticks to leave us alone...they even hit Ahmed! :( so we retraced our steps and some other people helped us escape. But we still didn't know how to get home....so we hid in a Coptic church until the celebrations calmed down. The caretakers of the church were really nice and let us watch a wedding that was taking place. We were even allowed to take pictures during the ceremony. So I whipped out my camera and started taking pictures...but I didn't know where the bride and groom were at first. oops! Once I found them, people realized that there were foreigners attending the wedding. They were sooo happy! and the pushed Jessica, Ahmed and I closer to the stage. But Jessica and Ahmed left me and the next thing I knew I was on stage with the closest relatives of the bride and groom and I was right next to the priest! I was embarrassed....but at the same time happy that I could experience that. Its not everyday that you hide from celebrating fans in a church and next thing you know you are almost part of the wedding!

We were eventually able to walk safely home. Some more of my Egyptian friends met us....so I think Jessica and I had 8 body guards:) we were even able to stop on a bridge where we could safely witness the celebrations on Gamia al-dowall.

And yes, Egypt is still celebrating the championship. I love the people here!!

African Champions

2nd semester in Egypt

All I have to say is that I'm having so much fun right now! I'm keeping myself really busy...to the point that Jessica and I are really happy when we get 6 hours of sleep:) We have met a lot of really cool people, go out almost every night and always do something different...such as: playing pool, squash and ping pong, watching soccer games on tv at home or in cafes, horse back riding at night(its so much fun making the horse run when you can't see anything at all! Ahmed and I even rode a horse that bucked! so scary but cool:)), exploring restaurants and new areas, cooking new foods...and realizing that there are differences between foods in different countries...such as the celery (you will see the pictures and laugh) and of course just hanging out with friends and having a great time. haha Jessica and I hope/plan to return to Egypt together after college....I really hope we can manage that:)

random outings

New start in Egypt

Sorry I haven't written in a while. I have been crazy busy setting up my new apartment, doing school work, and of course enjoying myself in Cairo!!

I returned to Cairo in February and have been sooo happy ever since! After arriving at the airport, I surprised everyone because I had so much luggage!! haha, I did also buy a lot of stuff for my friends:) I saw Hesham's new car and I was finally able to learn the name of my new street!!

I currently live in Agouza (an area near Mohandiseen and Zamalek) behind the circus (yes a real circus, and we can hear the lion roar...even sometimes see him! so he is our new guardian).

I love my new apartment...haha except in the beginning it was so dusty (no one had lived there for at least 2 months), the toilet had issues, the washer didn't work, and there was no internet. But now, all the problems are solved! And I'm so happy the refrigerator actually works so there is no more food poisoning. I still have problems with the maid, but my Arabic is improving a lot so now I can chew her out in Arabic:) hehe....she is a great cleaner, but doesn't always show up or is 3 hours late. hmmm. Patience is a virtue!! The walls are extremely hard for some reason, so we can't hang anything on the wall:( But luckily I brought duct tape so now we are classy college students with duct tape picture frames. oh well it works:) I'll attach pictures, but the apartment is much bigger than my old one, has a tv, a large balcony, and we have lots of adventures with the sketchy elevators. haha and when they don't work, we get to walk up 10 flights of stairs! so much fun....hah...but good exercise at least. We even have a garden under our building. We can see the Nile river and sometimes a pyramid!! It is much closer to everything in Cairo...so I am much happier here. I can even have people clean my clothes an I can quickly run downstairs to a little corner store and buy anything I need. If they don't have it, then they get it from somewhere else and deliver it. One time they ran out of light plain yogurt, so they found it somewhere else and delivered it...even though it was 1:30 in the morning!:) haha. Now, they know me and my roommate and always have light yogurt in stock. Man I'm so spoiled. There are also no restrictions about people in my apartment...so I have been inviting all my friends. Sometimes they even randomly show up! hahaha. We even know some of our neighbors:) ....I didn't even know my neighbors in Seattle!. One works for a phone company....so if I have any problems he can help...he also works for an NGO in Alexandria that deals with people who have HIV/AIDS and he is willing to invite me to the next meeting:) The other is a Palestinian who is studying at the Canadian University and is sharing his internet with us.....We are friends now and play pool and smoke shisha with his friends:)....so as you can tell....my second semester is much better!!


My new roommate...

Her name is Jessica and she's from Texas (studies at USC) and is the coolest person ever!!!!!!!! We bust a gut everyday, we go everywhere together...get lost, eat babaganoush, an walk home 1 hour from school everyday. She has even gotten used to me running into things and tripping! and I don't scare her anymore when I sleep walk...funny stories. Anyways she always there for me....and its nice to have someone to explore everything and anything!!

new apartment in agouza